Cultivation Advice

Snowdrops are very versatile plants and will grow happily in lots of different conditions. If you ask 100 different growers how they grow theirs, you'd most likely get 100 different answers! Here's what has worked for me over the years. I hope some of it is useful.

When your plants arrive

Please inspect your plants thoroughly as soon as they arrive, then pot them up or plant them as soon as you can. If anything isn't right, just let me know and I'll put it right.

Planting

Snowdrops are happiest in the ground in the garden, either planted directly into the soil (best of all) or in plastic mesh aquatic baskets sunk into the ground. If your soil is on the heavy side, improve it with some organic matter and maybe a little grit or perlite.

Plant at around three times the depth of the bulb. For snowdrops bought 'in the green', plant so that the paler part of the leaves (the part that was below ground) sits at or just below soil level.

I always quarantine new arrivals in pots in a frost-free greenhouse for their first season, just to make sure they're completely healthy before they go out into the garden.

Potting mix

A well-drained mix is essential. In my opinion there's no single 'best' potting mix – whatever works for you is best, and experimenting is the way to find out! I use between 30% and 50% perlite, topped up with John Innes No.2 and organic potting compost. A third of each is a good starting point. Leaf mould, sharp sand and grit are all excellent additions too.

If you grow in pots, never let them freeze solid, as you risk losing the bulbs. This is especially dangerous when the mix is too wet – another reason good drainage matters so much.

Where to plant

I love growing snowdrops amongst other plants in my borders: around deciduous shrubs and trees, and under hardy geraniums and other shallow-rooted perennials, which give them some shade once they come into growth. They also look lovely growing through sedums, saxifrages and black grass (Ophiopogon). The list of companions is endless – just keep them away from anything with thick or deep roots.

Snowdrops will thrive anywhere from dappled shade to full sun, depending on the species, but I wouldn't plant them in full shade. In full sun, make sure other plants cover the soil during summer so the bulbs don't bake in those (rare!) heatwaves. Don't be afraid to move them around while they're dormant to find the spot they like best.

• G. elwesii – I find it prefers a sunny spot.
• G. nivalis and G. plicatus – tolerant of a much broader range of conditions.
• G. reginae-olgae and G. bursanus – full sun to part shade is most likely best, although I have grown them in every aspect. The most important things are excellent drainage and a dry summer rest.
• Yellow snowdrops – I always give these my sunniest spot, as the yellow colouring seems to be enhanced by the sun.

After flowering

Never chop off the leaves after flowering – let them die back naturally. The leaves feed the bulb through photosynthesis, so it can put on as much growth as possible and be in good health for next year.

Pests and diseases

Fungal infections, viruses and Narcissus Fly are the main enemies, so it pays to be vigilant. If you grow a collection you will, unfortunately, lose the odd snowdrop – there's no worse feeling than a special one not popping up the next year!

Plant hygiene is very important, as viruses and fungal infections pass easily between plants if you handle a diseased one and then a healthy one. I check every single snowdrop in my collection in detail every year and discard anything that looks even slightly suspect.

Narcissus Fly

A relentless pest that lays its eggs at the base of the snowdrops as they die back from early April. Netting gives 100% protection, and I do this every year for my purpose-built beds. Around the garden it's trickier, but firming down the soil around the base of the leaves makes it harder for the larvae to reach the bulb. Planting amongst herbaceous perennials that are in growth by early April also helps to hide the snowdrop foliage from 'The Fly'.

Botrytis galanthina

Botrytis thrives in damp, humid conditions and shows as a fuzzy grey mould. Once it's in the bulb it's normally too late to save it, so remove the bulb along with as much of the surrounding soil as possible, and avoid planting snowdrops in that spot for a few years. Well-drained soil and avoiding spots that are too damp or dark are the best protection.

Stagonospora curtisii ('stag')

An orange, yellow or red 'burnt' area on the tips of the leaves is a reliable sign of stag, along with dry, very unhappy-looking leaves and orange or 'burnt' marks on the bulb itself. We all know what a healthy snowdrop looks like – if one doesn't look the way you'd expect, remove it straight away with as much soil as you can and investigate. If I suspect stag, I would always destroy the bulb. Unless it's something extremely special, it's just not worth the risk to the rest of your collection.

These problems will never be completely eradicated from any collection, but by being extra vigilant you can remove anything showing signs and keep the rest of your snowdrops protected.

Enjoy them!

I wish you the very best of luck with your snowdrops, particularly if you're new to them. Although you'll lose the odd bulb now and again, the joy of seeing them flower every winter and watching the clumps form far outweighs every peril you'll come across. I used to dread the winter before my snowdrops, and now it's one of my favourite times of the year. Galanthophilia is a slippery slope that I fell down a long time ago, but I don't regret a thing!

If you have any questions, please feel free to get in touch. I'm certainly no expert, but I've a lot of experience growing my collection and I'm always happy to help if I can.